She was both incredibly traditional and deeply transgressive of so many long-standing conventions of how a woman should be. His films-quiet, beautiful, devastating, as emotively nuanced as they are visually rich-are his true lasting imprint. He has not just created immaculate, richly impactful garments and accessories, first at Gucci then at YSL and with his own brand, but arguably, has influenced the very way in which we collectively perceive sexuality and desire. Perhaps more than any other living designer, he’s a legend of the culture-shaping variety. Partially because of this folklore, but mainly of his legacy, I was quite nervous when I called Mr. He painted the tractors on his ranch all black to complement his black horses and black Angus cattle. Editing his films frame by frame, and zooming in to amplify a shade of cantaloupe to give it the ideal tone getting down on one knee, impeccably mannered, to ask Stella McCartney to be his son’s godparent. And he’s famous for being a perfectionist with an attention to detail rivaling Stanley Kubrick (not to mention all his fellow Virgos). The man is as mythological as his brand-known for sleek glamour of the ultimate old-school Hollywood variety. You might not even know it, but it’ll inform the audience of who that character is.There are wild stories about Tom Ford interviews. There are all kinds of signatures, and things, that as a costume designer, become talisman-an aspect that will not only visually inform but your eye may register them. He’s in Texas and has a certain swagger to his character. He has different signifiers as well, like the cowboy hat. He’s a man who has his own suffering that he’s dealing with. We had this backstory that it was a ring he took from a young girl that he raped.”Īs for Michael Shannon’s character, a detective who takes Gyllenhaal’s character under his wing, Phillips explained, “He had a rogue quality to him, in that he is really about justice at any cost. We thought that is the kind of birthstone-jewelry that a 16-year-old girl would have. He also wears a woman’s pinky ring in the movie, but it is actually a scary thing. And we liked the intensity of them being green. He has this bravado and is in Texas, so he wears cowboy boots. “I had these green cowboy boots made, which we thought were just off-putting in the right way. “There are a couple really good clues that Tom and I had a lot of fun with for Aaron Taylor-Johnson’s character,” says Phillips of the story’s villain. Tom has this exacting ability to communicate on the visual level.” And because of their shorthand, Phillips said that she had a fun time brainstorming costume clues for the characters played by Amy Adams, Jake Gyllenhaal, Michael Shannon, Aaron Taylor-Johnson.Īhead, Phillips shares some secrets about designing the looks for the thriller, which features an art gallery owner (Adams) haunted by a disturbing novel written by her ex-husband (Gyllenhaal) that seems to be a story of sordid revenge. “Most directors don’t have the vernacular to speak in aesthetics, but they speak about story. “The ability to communicate aesthetics is always a very challenging thing for directors,” Phillips explained on the phone last month, while discussing her work on their second on-screen collaboration, Nocturnal Animals, out in theaters Friday. The only area where the line between Ford the fashion designer and Ford the filmmaker blurs is when it comes to Ford’s vocabulary, which allows him to communicate aesthetic ideas with Phillips as efficiently as possible. Oscar-nominated costume designer Arianne Phillips ( Walk the Line, W.E.) likes to say that she works with Tom Ford “the movie director, not the fashion designer.” What Phillips, who costumed Ford’s cinematic debut, A Single Man, means is that while Ford’s name is synonymous with sophisticated fashion, the filmmaker cedes complete sartorial control to Phillips on set.
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